February 03, 2021

Apalachicola FL

 


It is no small thing to be invited to stay at the home of friends you’ve only physically met once over two years ago, and yet that is exactly what our next adventure is all about. We met Laurel and Eric of Raven & Chickadee, another pair of full-time RVers, only three months into our first year of traveling. (I will refer to them collectively as LE for the rest of this post.) If you click on that link, it will take you to Laurel’s blog post all about that spontaneous epic holiday meet-up which spawned our continued, albeit virtual, friendship. Our travels since then have been in opposite directions, our two planned intersections in 2020 were sidelined, but we were finally able to find them at her folks’ house in Eastpoint, Florida where they have been for over a year now and where they had agreed to tolerate our moochdocking for twelve days.

Although that seems like plenty of time to get really sick of one another, it flew by, I took scant notes, not enough pictures, and I’m not completely thrilled with the ones we did take. That probably also seems like plenty of time to do all of the things we’d planned together via text and phone calls, but I assure you, we left more than a few activities undone and several conversations unfinished. That’s what’s supposed to happen when you’re busy having a such a good time, though, right? Right! Let’s find out what kept us so happily occupied.

The day finally arrived on which we finally arrived, and stepping out to get the car unhitched, I heard a call then spotted E waving from across the block.

We’re heeeeere! 

 

Our premium site at Bayshore RV Resort came complete with water hookup, 30A service, extra fridge space, laundry facilities, and trash pickup! It also came with a great view out our windshield.


 Beyond the tree line is Apalachicola Bay, and we could see slices of it from the rig, as well as all the birds that came to the feeder and the holly tree every day. 

 Our first afternoon passed in a flurry of excited conversation, a nice ~3 mile walk on the paved neighborhood trail, and E’s delicious jambalaya enjoyed around the propane fire pit on their large, screened porch. That night, all was quiet except for what I thought was the sound of a heron. I didn’t look out, and now I regret that because E informed us it was really the family of foxes that lives in and around their house. We’d hear them a few more times, but never get a glimpse of them.


 In the morning, we opened TBGrille Food Truck, and folks lined up quick for TBG’s signature breakfast!

It was too cold and windy for us to enjoy our breakfasts together on the porch, but, as usual, TBG’s tasty specialty was a huge hit with the customers.

We waited for the day to warm a bit before setting out for a little adventuring on St. George Island. St. George is a long, skinny barrier island, north of which is Apalachicola Bay and south of which is the Gulf of Mexico. The eastern end is a state park, and that’s where we were headed for one of LE’s favorite short hikes. To get there requires a drive over a long causeway and then through the residential side of the island, which is packed with houses on stilts. Imagine any town full of many-storied homes with a mix of architectural styles, then imagine them all raised onto 10’+ stilts, and that will give you the visual.

LE are avid birders, especially E, and their excitement and appreciation are contagious. I couldn’t tell you all the birds we saw along the trail, but I do remember there were a lot of yellow-rumped warblers because E told us that they are affectionately known to bird enthusiasts as “butterbutts.” Now, that’s my kind of critter-namin’!


 he sun was warm, but the wind was still chilly, so we didn’t stay long at the beachy part of the trail. Back at the homestead, we later reconvened around the fire pit on the porch for warm bowls of my Zuppa Toscana and continued conversation. The wind was still whipping, making for chilly outdoor conditions, but Eric helped mitigate that by placing pieces of plywood all along the bottom screens. Some of the pictures I mysteriously didn’t take include any of us on the porch enjoying our fabulous dinners together, but most evenings were spent that way.

On our second full day, I availed myself of the laundry facilities, TBG spent the day replacing the hot water anode and one of the rear brake lights and installing my new bike seat. I also accompanied L on her daily fast walk, part of which I was going to run, testing out my new road-running shoes. Due to a miscommunication, I lost her, and when I doubled back to re-connect, she was nowhere to be found. I didn’t have my cell phone because I was relying on her with hers. I ended up running all the way back to the house, stopping occasionally, frantically calling out for her. When I got back home, I grabbed my cell phone, and TBG drove me back. She answered my text immediately saying she was on the trail. WTH?! Obviously, we caught up with her, TBG dropped me off, and we finished our walk. Turns out, she’d taken a side cul-de-sac (or two) to add distance to her walk and hadn’t been snatched by pitbulls, panthers, or predators like I’d feared. The new shoes, by the way, got more of a break-in run than originally intended and performed wonderfully. That evening’s feast was L’s chicken tagine. It was so delicious, I forgave her for scaring the shit out of me.


It was a beautiful day of deep blue sky, white sandy beach, snowy plovers, and seashells. LE taught us about some of the shells, and E and TBG each found at least one delicate white baby’s ear. On our return, another beach-goer pointed out a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins hunting offshore.


Just before we reached the parking lot, while we were on the boardwalk, I turned to say something to L, and looking back over her shoulder, saw the dolphins really jumping. We both watched as one leaped straight up completely out of the water! We shouted to the guys, who were already at the car, to come back and see the fantastic show. It was so exciting, I couldn’t help from yelling “Wheeeee!” every time one jumped really high. There could not have been a better ending to our beautiful seashell walk.

 

For our next outing, our local guides wanted to show us around the town of Apalachicola. You may have noticed that I titled this post “Apalachicola” and not “Eastpoint,” which is where LE’s house actually is. The two towns lie across the bay from one another, and while the house is, indeed, in Eastpoint, L’s family is originally from Apalachicola, and that is the name she most often uses when referring to their time spent in the area. Besides, Apalachicola is much more fun to say. 

  

“Apalach” is a true mix of new and dilapidated homes and businesses, many that way due to prior storm damage. Several of the residential blocks are beautiful and reminded us of Savannah. We wound our way through the neighborhoods, and into the charming downtown area where we ordered a takeout lunch from Tamara’s Cafe. We took our food down the block to the public picnic tables on the pier, where the grackles and gulls made repeated requests for a taste of TBG’s lunch of Grouper Cheeks, LE’s of Fish Tacos, and mine of Shrimp & Grits. Their pleas went unanswered.

Next we continued along the water to the boat yard, where E said there are almost always Black-crowned Night Herons perching on the boats. Sure enough, there were! 
 

We walked through the town’s small but nicely-kept botanical garden and then took a short jaunt along Woody’s Trail.

The town, while not large in a city sense, was much bigger than TBG and I had thought, and we really liked it. If it wasn’t in Florida where all too soon the heat, humidity, and bugs will make it nearly unbearable, we’d consider living there. It was a great way to spend the day, and by far, our favorite sighting was that of a pair of Apalach Lovebirds.

We went our separate ways the next day, TBG and I taking a five-mile bike ride on the neighborhood trail so that I could test out my new bike seat. I’ll talk more about it later in subsequent posts, but it’s a keeper.

That evening, we had a happy hour gathering around the outdoor fire pit with another pair of full-time RVers who we’ve come to know virtually over the past few years. Inexplicably, I have no photos of it. LE have been able to spend actual time with them this last year, while Shannon and Ken, aka Zamia Ventures, have been hard at work building their new home on St. George Island. Our visit was much too short, but we thought at the time that we’d be able to get together at least once more before we left the area and get an up-close look at their new digs. I guess that spoils the fact that we didn’t, but I’ll surprise you later with why.

I also have no photos of our scrumptious dinner, but I will brag about what we had anyhow. I, using my consummate Instant Pot skillz, brought potato salad and braised red cabbage to the table, while Grill Master E made delectable chicken thighs.

TBGrille opened again the next morning, and after filling our bellies with another Big Breakfast, TBG stayed home to work on some more RV maintenance while I followed LE to Carrabelle (McKissack) Beach. This is a place E visits a few times a week for birdwatching, and it’s a pretty beach to walk along birds or no.

You can see E has his spotting scope and tripod, and as we walked we encountered a man walking towards us with the exact same equipment. Turns out, it was another birder whom E “knew” from their postings on eBird, an internet birdwatching tracking database. We chatted with him and his wife, and he gave us some local bird sighting tips.

On his previous trip out, E had spotted some Piping Plovers, a near-endangered species. We were encouraged to spot these little cuties again on this trip, along with more Snowy and Semi-palmated Plovers. It was a plover-rich environment and a fun beach walk for us and them. We did not make that sandy seastar, but I wouldn’t put it past those crafty plovers.

That night’s supper was my Pollo en Mole and L’s corn tortillas and coleslaw. Delish! The following day was another mostly down day. I accompanied L on her daily walk, TBG washed the car, and I don’t have the data on E’s whereabouts for that day. There was another mouth-watering dinner of L’s fish chowder, and he did show up for that. Hee!

Following the tips from the birder on the beach and wanting to visit the Farmers Market, TBG and I followed E across the bridge again into Apalach. We were hoping to pick up some Tupelo honey, and we were all wanting some fresh produce.

It may have been the overcast chilly weather, but there were only a handful of vendors, none of whom had any produce and just one who had the honey, but it was only in very small bottles. E and I each bought our sweethearts a special chocolate bar, then we moved on to try to find the two birds we were seeking.

The first was a Peregrine Falcon that was said to be nesting underneath the causeway. All we located, however, was part of a rainbow and what we think may have been the falcon’s nest.

The second bird required a walk into the residential area of town, and we had to pass through a BBQ festival we didn’t know ahead of time was happening. Had we known, we may have delayed our outing in order to load up on some takeout BBQ. The aroma of all the cooking meats drove us crazy as we walked.

We were looking for a female Painted Bunting, which compared to the artist’s palette colors of the male, isn’t much to look at but would have been a fun bird to locate this time of year. I also reasoned that where there are lady birds, gentlemen birds are sure to follow. We persisted through some rainy sprinkles, but came up empty. No honey, no peregrine, no bunting, no BBQ. Boooooo! We warmed ourselves that night with a big pot of my black bean soup and L’s cornbread.

LE had a exclusive outing planned the next day with an Audubon worker to see a special place not normally open to the public. I’m not explaining that well at all, but suffice it to say they had an exciting day out planned, and we were holding down the fort. TBG washed the RV while I did laundry and cheffed up my special yellow curry, kale salad, and special chocolate pie.

And then…

TBG announced our black tank was leaking. What?! EW. “We have to leave!” I cried, “We can’t leak that all over their property!” It wasn’t quite as dire as that since it wasn’t actively leaking directly out onto the ground, but it did, unfortunately, mean that we’d have to leave in order to get to a place with sewer hookups and buy a new valve. This was not news we wanted to deliver.

When LE got home, we had dinner all set up on the porch, and we made sure to have them recount the details of their special day first. Then we had to break the bad news. L cried, I cried, the fellas looked seriously glum. We ate chocolate pie, which helped a little. We didn’t need to leave early at all, so TBG served one last Big Breakfast from the food truck, and L and I had one last walk in the warm sun. I didn’t lose her this time, and we’ll never lose the memories of such a lovely time with our dear, dear friends.



***************COMMENTS***************


kempnussbaum We wished we could have spent more time there especially after reading this write up.

TBG Ditto Kemp. Loving your blog BTW, http://travelswithtoohey.com/

Chasing Dirt It’s so hard sometimes to know ahead how much of your calendar to devote to certain places! Then throw in weather, and all bets are off. We have definitely mis-timed or overlooked locations, only to hear about some really great stuff we missed. I guess that just means there’s something to do next time! 

Shannon While we are of course sorely disappointed that we weren’t able to spend more time with you, we are thrilled that you had such a good visit to our area. You did plenty of great things and saw lots of critters, but as you know you also barely scratched the surface! I am most happy that you two and LE could spend quality time together. The lack of community and lack of human connection in these pandemic times is so hard, and a big dose of time together with friends sure can be a tonic for the soul.

Chasing Dirt At least you guys are in the panhandle, so if we’re ever back this way, it’s an easy place to get to travel-wise! There are always meet-ups on the road when you start traveling again, too. We wish, for many reasons, that we hadn’t had to take off early, but we are so glad to have had the time we did.

chapter3travels Who’s jealous? Not me. I’m not jealous. No Siree! Not jealous at all.

(sobs softly into pillow).Oh, I’m kidding. I am definitely jealous. What a fantastic visit you guys had! Great food, great company, great scenery, plenty of exercise as well as downtime… a dolphin show!!! Pretty much a perfect visit. Sorry to hear it ended on a crappy note (pun definitely intended), but at least it was at the end instead of the beginning. And I’m definitely glad you didn’t lose Laurel to a panther/alligator/other Florida hell creature. What an awkward blog post that would have been!

RV friends are the best and they truly make the experience so much richer. I’m glad you guys had such a great time and look forward to everyone being able to hang out on the road again soon!

 Chasing Dirt I don’t think I can sum it up any better than “perfect” and “fantastic.” It was both those things. I don’t know what 2021 might throw at all of us, but surely, surely it will see us able to re-connect with more of our RV friends on the road. Like, oh, I dunno. YOU?! Say yes, even if it’s a lie. Let me dream a little.

Laurel I still cry every time I walk out the door and you guys are not there.  Seriously, it was so much fun having you here, and so easy. It would have been nice to have the weather be a bit warmer for our evenings on the porch, but we all made the best of it!

We loved being able to show you two around our little hometown (one of our hometowns) and we sure loved all of the fabulous meals we shared! From morning Big Breakfasts served up at the giant RV food truck to our cozy dinners around the propane pit, it was all wonderful. Dang, we miss you guys! I hope we don’t have to wait another two years before we see you again!

Thanks for coming to visit. Y’all come back, now!
 
Chasing Dirt Don’t cry! I left you a kitten to cheer you up!

It was everything and more that we’d hoped for and anticipated for so long. How many things do we get to say that about in our lives? It won’t be another two years because, damn it, it just can’t be! It would be so much fun to meet in an area new to us all and explore. Let’s keep that plan in our hearts with a mind to making it so. We still need to sing and kayak and maybe sing in a kayak! Love you to bits, Sister Wife & Cabana Boy II.

 placestheygo I’m with Laura…totally jealous!!! You four had such a fun time with so many wonderful adventures. I love that you were serving up breakfast from the RV Food Truck. Your menu sign was so clever. You definitely had a primo site with a sweet view. The resort owners are truly the best kind of people. We sure miss being able to get together with them. Having outside distancing dinners around the firepit sound like a super good time. Your travels to the east coast and Florida were perfectly timed to meet up for an extra long visit with Laurel and Eric. A real bonus to all we are having to go through with the pandemic. I sure hope your black tank leak was a quick fix. I believe we had this same leak and a new valve solved it.

 Chasing Dirt We couldn’t have asked for anything more! Truly the best of everything. Well, they haven’t refurbished the hot tub yet, LOL! Being of like mind on how to be safe while still being able to visit put us all at ease, and even though it was a bit chilly early/late, the weather really cooperated for us.

The tank valve was a relatively easy fix and seems to be holding up — thank goodness!! It really STUNK that it shortened our time, but I have a feeling we’re ALL going to be able to do some serious catching up in person in the coming year

axobyo This is a very detailed write up. Enjoyed reading it.

 Chasing Dirt Thank you very much!

 
 Lowe's Travels Totally jealous! need I say more?

But I have to say LE are the best local guides in town! Miss you all.

Chasing Dirt We miss you a lot, too, but, if my calculations are correct, you’re getting some visitors soon yourselves!

Sharron @onlytherocks What a great time with friends met from the road. What a treat for all of you guys. Connecting with fellow RV’ers is truly something special.
We’ve spent a little time in the Apalachicola area and always enjoyed it. We’ve bought our share of their oysters which are some of the tastiest we have ever had. But I think I read recently that they have been farmed out . Dolphins are so fun to watch. Glad you got to see them Jump and twirl around. Beautiful pictures as always.

 Chasing Dirt It’s true that much of the oysters are outsourced now 

 Dolphins always seem so happy, don’t they? They sure did that day, anyhow! We were so busy enjoying the sites, we came away with far fewer pictures than we normally do. The time with friends was most important, so we can only be so disappointed. I hope some of this year allows us to intersect with more RV friends — they are the best, as you say. Here’s hoping someday those friends will be YOU!

January 27, 2021

Rainbow Springs S.P. FL

 Rainbow Springs wasn’t on our original Florida list, not because we didn’t want to go there, but because it’s one of the more popular state parks that usually requires a year’s worth of lead time to reserve. We had a five-day gap in our travel schedule, and a few months ago TBG checked and was lucky to find an opening at Rainbow that tucked into that gap.


 The campground is separate from the main park, but it’s not without things to do. We walked the sweet ~.75-mile Nature Loop on our first afternoon and ran around it a couple of times on another morning. The store was open, and it was where we (I) had to go to rent our kayak for a paddle up to the headsprings. It’s a six-mile drive to that point in the main park but only a few miles by water. 


 It was a gray start to the day, but the forecast was on our side, and it was set to be one of the warmest days of our stay. The low clouds lifted not long after we set out, and the unreal swimming-pool-blue color of the river bottom revealed itself beneath the crystalline water.


 There were other folks on the river, but not so many that it was crowded in any way. We had our eyes on a young, obviously inexperienced, couple who were a bit wild in their paddling efforts. About two-thirds of the way to the end, some other kayakers were watching something near the shore, and we heard them say “otter.” We slowed and quietly paddled over that way. Not so the wild pair. TBG was keeping us stable while I tried to snap some pics, when the bow of their kayak rammed the bow of ours. “Sorry!” the gal called out, nervously giggling. It was all I could do not to thwap her with my paddle. That is why my photos of the otter aren’t all they should’ve been.


Once the noisy boat-rammers cleared out, we were able to re-locate the otter by listening for and hearing it chomping on its fish snacks. We’ve seen otters in the wild many times, but it never gets old. What we didn’t see, and you won’t find in these warm springs, are manatees. By all rights, they should be found here, but my online research taught me that there is an old unused lock system at the mouth of the river which prevents them from accessing the springs. Given that manatees are protected and the plethora of citizen groups that work to keep their populations safe and thriving, I was surprised there didn’t seem to be any efforts or plans to have that old lock removed.

We reached the main springs shortly after. It was beautiful and had a large, roped off swimming area, but we’ll come back to that. You can put your kayak up at the rental place there and explore the main park on foot, then paddle back (or rent one there and paddle out and back) but we saved that for another day.

The river’s current flows, obviously, from the headsprings, making the paddle back a non-paddle if you so choose as there is enough force to propel you gently along all the way back. As you can imagine, the shores were alive with all sorts of animal life, save alligators, which can be found here but aren’t often.

 

The only thing that could’ve made this adventure better was if there had been manatees, but we both agreed it was our favorite kayak outing ever.

It was a much chillier day on our first trip back to the main park. At one time, like many of the Florida state parks with springs, the area was a privately owned theme park that housed a small zoo, glass-bottom boat tours, and even a monorail. The walkways, man-made waterfalls and remnants of the animal habitats still remain.


 There were a few bright blooms and birds, and the swimming area glowed invitingly. The large glass-bottom boats have been replaced by “glass” kayaks.


 As well as the more formal trails, there are a few longer walks to be had. We hadn’t anticipated that, but we’re almost always up for adding more walking to our day, planned or not.


 

We followed the blazes for the Yellow Trail. You’ll notice that I don’t have any map info to share in this post, and that is because TBG’s phone went belly up right around this time, and we were waiting to pick up his new one at our next stop. Add in the fact that I couldn’t seem to remember to load the app he uses onto my phone, and that completes my excuse. We walked about three miles altogether, our pace was slow, and our elevation gain was zero.

We just beat the rain, which made things even chillier overall, but if you recall our swimming strategy from Salt Springs, it will come as no surprise that we planned to repeat a dunk when the water temps exceeded the air temps. We didn’t get up as early as we did the first time we tried it, so there were a few other people about. A couple of non-swimmers advised us that they’d seen a water moccasin sunning itself on the branches just outside the swimming area. It was no longer there, and no one was sure where it was. We could easily see where it wasn’t, though, and that was in the swimming area. Cannonbaaaaaaall!!!


 
OK, no one cannonballed, but we both put aside our fear of coming face-to-face with a water moccasin while free-floating far from shore and each had a glorious dip. A young family of four was also enjoying a swim, and the dad kept joyfully exclaiming, “It’s January!” There really is nothing quite like a Florida warm spring, and because it was very likely the last time we’ll be able to experience one, I went in twice, and envied the life of a manatee.

***************************COMMENTS********************** 

Tristan Pfeffer Beautiful clear waters and I can just feel the warm water while I look out over a foot of snow and temps in the teens here! Lee says he’s glad the water moccasin didn’t get you

Chasing Dirt It has been a lovely treat to be able to take a warm dip in the middle of winter. We agree with Lee and are very glad to not have encountered the moccasin! It was not easy to get in (or out), knowing it would be around the edges. I’m all shivery thinking about it now! 
 
Pete Your travels have me at times transfixed at the great photography of both nature and wildlife, that said…I have been to Florida twice once on a belated honeymoon and the second time the obligatory visit to Walt Disney world when my children were old enough and suffice it to say that finding an alligator outside my motel rooms door and the humidity had me saying I would never return. You pictures and words however paint a very different experience than what I encountered, and have me thinking it would be a nice ‘winter’ destination.

Keep the postings coming this old man enjoys them as I am sure many other people also do.

TBG You know Pete, it feels like once is enough for me down here too. We’re in a cooler area now, but all it takes is the heat to go north of 70 and humidity in the higher ranges and I start to feel uncomfortable.

Chasing Dirt Always the kindest words from you, Pete! Even though we feel like we have really gotten a great taste of what the state likes to call “the real Florida,” we are sure it’s not a place we’d like to make a permanent home. The springs, though, make a convincing reason to think twice about it and certainly are worth a visit or re-visit!

  placestheygo When we started our full-time life, we spent the first two years just going up and down the east coast and the Maritimes. I’m so glad we did a fairly good job covering these places because once we left for the dry west, there was no long term returning to Florida. The bugs are what did me in. I just couldn’t do the noseeums again. I am most definitely not a humidity person either. But that said, one must visit the east and do winter in Florida. We really enjoyed out time. Love that you are exploring the beautiful springs (we weren’t real aware of how spectacular they are). Since we missed kayaking them, I visit with others’ photos. The water is such a perfect color. Glad the water moccasin didn’t appear to be around. We did a canoe trip with Steve and ML in Big Cypress and saw many moccasins twisted in the trees along the route. Gives you the shivers! Looks like another great adventure for you two.

 Chasing Dirt We agree with you, Pam! Beautiful, interesting place to visit, wouldn’t wanna live here. Every full-time RVer has to “do” Florida at least once. The spring water is amazing, and it is easy to see why people have been drawn to them. We are very glad that bad old snake stayed in hiding, allowing us to swim safely. Bitey things — bugs included — are bad!

  Sue I always enjoyed our Florida travels, more after the fact than during them however. I just can’t deal with the bugs, humidity and mold. Once again, through your posts, I miss seeing those beautiful springs and lush vegetation, walking out to a sweet warm morning, etc. We probably won’t get back that way again (with the motorhome) so I appreciate reading and seeing these posts. You’ve found some wonderful spots.

 Chasing Dirt Oh, great, now I have to crawl around and check for mold! Having come from the Pacific NW, I have some experience with that. We will miss these crystal-clear springs the most of all the geographical features we’ve seen in Florida. We might already be out of warm mornings, but it’s still earning its name and giving us some sunshine. I appreciate your kind words, and I know that we will look back on these posts fondly in the same way others have who won’t be back this way again.

  It was very lucky that you managed to find a spot through cancellation, since it led to your favorite kayak journey ever! Sometimes the universe conspires to put us in the right place.

I have a lot of nostalgia for those old tourist attractions that have now become state parks. While I never liked the zoo aspects, I LOVE the fact that there was a time when people were completely wowed by blooming plants and warm swimming waters *in January.* So much so that they would travel long distances and pay entrance fees to gape at the flowers and enjoy the waters. Well, I guess people are still impressed! Your post nicely illustrates why.

 Chasing Dirt It was, indeed, a stroke of major luck! Walking around these reclaimed parks, it is so easy to see why they were such a draw. This history of Rainbow says that it was the highway system that bypassed and the major theme parks which overshadowed them that caused the decline of the smaller attractions. I do like that many of them have become state parks preserving the allure of the geography. Being someone who didn’t escape Big Snow until almost 30 years of age, I don’t think I’ll ever not be amazed when I can swim outdoors in the middle of winter. It’s glorious!

  chapter3travels There’s a part of me that wishes we had gone swimming in the springs down there, but I am just too chicken. It is unquestionably beautiful and such a cool thing to be able to swim in warm waters in January, but my (totally rational / not crazy at all) fears get the best of me. I’m glad you two aren’t wusses and actually experienced all the good stuff.

I’m also happy to hear you guys enjoyed the paddle so much. The colorful waters, the variety of wildlife, and the nice easy pace all combined to make it one of our favorites too. Of course, no one rammed our boat mid-paddle. Yikes.

 Chasing Dirt I don’t think your fears are groundless or that you are wusses at all, but I do understand the regret, which is why I went in twice. My fear of regretting not doing so was just a teeny-weeny-tiny bit bigger than that of a water moccasin, and I knew I would want to kick my own ass later if I’d passed up my last chance. You, however, will most certainly visit Florida again, and you can conquer your fear! Thank you for the info ahead of time about the paddle — it surely helped us know what to expect and how to do it. It’s fun to know we share a favorite.

 TBG Bawk!

  Laurel I’m so glad you experienced kayaking the Rainbow River and swimming in Rainbow Springs. It’s one of our favorites, too.  Mesmerizing colors, birds, cool waters, and an otter! So much beauty and peace.

Meanwhile, we’ve not left Eastpoint in a year now. We would ordinarily have made some trips to kayak our favorite rivers, and reading your post makes me happy and nostalgic. There’s nothing quite like the Florida springs, and it’s something I will sorely miss when we leave one of these days. Oh, I feel so conflicted! Posts like these make me want to put down roots here.

 Chasing Dirt It’s hard to imagine anyone NOT loving it there at the springs! It was the first place I noticed that those cormorants have dazzling emerald-green eyes. I hope someday, that lock will get removed and the manatees can come back — although that would close the river to kayakers/swimmers during the winter. I have a sneaking suspicion you’re going to get plenty of chances to kayak your favorite rivers and springs again. Maybe you’ll have to think of yourselves like air plants instead of earth-rooted ones?

  Sharron @onlytherocks Lovely photos as usual. We kayaked a few times in some of the springs during our life in Florida and always enjoyed the beautiful clear waters. I too am a chicken as to “what lies beneath “ (or on top) that kept me from going for a swim. It’s gorgeous waters and scenery nonetheless. We won’t be settling back down in Florida either. We are done with that kind of heat and those nasty no seeums and mosquitoes. But we love the PNW and that comes with humidity so that is a compromise for us. But who knows where we will land. Or when.

 TBG Yes, the PNW humidity is on the opposite end of the spectrum. Cold short winter days, well, ok add in late fall and early spring. But when temps warm up for summer it dries out nicely.

 Chasing Dirt That gorgeous water is to blame for me ignoring any reasonable fear of the dangerous critters. I think I understand why some legends say that manatees were the original Sirens!

We definitely have the PNW in our hearts and haven’t ruled out a return when it’s time to plant. It’s so hard to choose, but I guess that just speaks to the beauty of this country!

  Lowe's Travels This is the part of Florida that I like the most other than the white beach further north. The cool clear springs, the kayak and the wildlife makes it worth while and most of all less people!
Our second visit filled me up about Florida and that was it. I will miss the big birds though!

 

 

 


 

January 20, 2021

Withlacoochee S.F. FL

 
 I am behind! Not that you, my Faithful Readers, would really notice the difference (much) but I am lagging by almost three weeks in real time. This post, however, encompasses just over two weeks of that time, so it will go a long way toward catching us up. With that, I take you to Withlacoochee State Forest and our first stop there in the Cypress Glen campground.


Our site was long, level, and had pretty good separation from other campers, especially since no one could be to one side or in back of us. We did directly face one other campsite across the road, but it was only occupied half of our total stay. Otherwise, we enjoyed the view and spotting some critters here and there.
 

 There were miles and miles of trails comprised of roads, single-track, and nice wide pathways. They were well-blazed and reasonably well-signed, but no maps, paper or digital, were very good for plotting ahead. The other important little detail is that hunting is allowed in much of the state forest area, so dressing brightly — blaze orange if ya got it — is a darn fine idea.
 

 Across the road from the campground’s main entrance, it was possible to access the Withlacoochee State Trail, a 46-mile paved rail trail. 
 

 It made for some mighty fine biking, at least with the qualities I prefer of longness, flatness, and trafficlessness. Along the way, we saw several gopher tortoise burrows, many with a curious gophie peeking out. They were not as willing to be photographed as those at Koreshan, and if you think tortoises are slow, you should’ve seen how fast they can run backwards to their tunnels.
 

 Our second ride, in the opposite direction, yielded a bit more excitement. As we were returning, a couple other bikers were stopped on trail, obviously looking at something to the side of it. “A rattler!” one of the women told us, “I nearly ran it over!” They were having trouble locating it again. I can’t think why.
 

 
 Remember in my Everglades post when I said I was perfectly fine if I never got to see another Eastern Diamondback? Too bad for me! The women said it had rattled at them, but by the time we came along, it was calm and watchful. Thereafter, every stick or palmetto frond in the trail was a snake until it clearly wasn’t.
 
You don’t suppose this is related, do you?
 

 
On our third ride, we took the intersecting Good Neighbor Trail, which connects the WST to the city of Brooksville. We’d briefly flirted with the idea of riding all the way into town, but after three long rides with only two rest days total, bad things were happening in my saddle region, and getting home and off the bike was all I desperately wanted. During the struggle back, we saw a couple weaner pigs along the trail, but, sadly, neither of them was Ziggy the Missing Piggy.


 At camp, a noisy armadillo scuffled through the leaves after dark a few nights, and one morning I looked out to see a big coyote standing in the road beside our site. Upon further inspection, I saw it was two, the younger busy pawing in our fire ring (unused by us.)
 

 

We thought at first she was eating old bones or remnants of trash, but she was chomping up bits of charcoal. The older one wasn’t really interested in eating any but seemed to be keeping watch, so my made-up theory is that the younger one had an upset tummy, and the more experienced one had led it to the best place to find the remedy. It was a miracle that no one came by on the road disturbing them, and the pair of Song Dogs exited into the woods at their leisure.

We didn’t have an official First Day Hike for the year, but we did eat the obligatory pork and sauerkraut, and our first walk didn’t happen until the 3rd.

The two most prominent types of lichen, pictured here, belatedly celebrated the season. The spongy one is called Reindeer Moss and the red form is called Christmas Wreath. The red is surreally bright in places and looks like paint on the trees. 


 On our second to last day, we took a trip up to Homosassa Springs and the state park with the ridiculously long name of Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park. Our GPS took us to the overflow lot instead of the main parking area, but that turned out to be a happy accident since a pretty paved trail connects that lot to the main park.


 Besides the first-magnitude springs — in layman’s terms that means lots of water coming out of the springs really fast — the place used to include an exotic animal park. Today, the wildlife park shelters native Florida species that are unable to survive in the wild on their own. The only hold-out is Lucifer (Lu) the hippo, who remains due to public demand that he stay as the park’s ambassador. He is now the oldest living hippo in captivity. Besides the informational signage about Lu, there is this seemingly amusing placard by his habitat.

Haha, heehee — wait —


Luuuuuuuuu!!! Gross!! Boy hippos fling their poo. Why? To mark their territory and impress females. I’m not sure how that makes me feel about female hippos.

It was fun-sad to see the captive native animals, but the main attractions for us were the free natives in the warm, crystal-clear spring water.

Floaty potatoes! And plenty of them!

They were numerous and visible from several viewing points throughout the park, and it was hard to make ourselves move along to see other things. It was also hard not to just jump in and hug one. Look at those faces! Obviously, they wanted me to.

Our next stop was a very short distance to the north at a campground in the same state forest, Tillis Hill.


 It is mostly set up to be a horse camp, with a nice row of double stables and dog kennels (no dogs allowed in the campground area.) On the day we arrived, the small campground was nearly empty, and even though people showed up over our three-day stay, it never felt crowded or noisy. The weather had become chilly, and we didn’t do much more than catch up on tasks we couldn’t complete with limited internet at Cypress Glen and take walks. My favorite part was all the birds singing their songs in the mornings, a red streak here, a blue flash there. It may seem odd that we’d feel like needing a break from what probably seems like a perpetual break, but our short stay felt like exactly that, with nowhere really to go and nothing pressing to do. I think that’s the definition of relaxation, no? 


 COMMENTS:

   Sue Floaty potatoes!!!!! I love it, floaty potatoes is exactly what they look like!

Chasing Dirt  I’d like to say that I totally made that up, but I read that description somewhere long ago, probably an uncredited meme. It was just too cute and accurate not to repeat!

strebor117  The coyote eating the charcoal reminds me of our little black dog from years and years ago. Spotless became lethargic and obviously very sick. Pets and children always get sick on the weekend requiring much more expensive visits to the ER. $150 later an x-ray revealed a mysterious granular substance in her stomach. It was moving through her, but not quickly enough. IV rehydration and an overnight stay at the vet brought her back. Charcoal was the culprit. She treated herself to some Kingsford from the fire pit. Hope the coyote didn’t need a vet!

Chasing Dirt Damn dogs! Yeah, the charcoal briquets would be bad news for doggies. I’m glad your pooch made it! I don’t think there were any briquets in the fire pit, just the charred wood remnants which *should* be OK for the woofs. We had a pup who treated herself to some delicious dark chocolates on Christmas Eve one year (speaking of always on weekends/holidays!) and charcoal at the Emer-Vet was the cure. I’m telling myself that the coyote was trying to achieve the same benefit.

placestheygo Nice new adventures. It’s amazing how many gopher turtles there around. They seem to love bike trails. That is one huge hippo!! Interesting poop fact! Love, love the floating potatoes!! It’s good to have kick back relaxing time.

Chasing Dirt There sure were a lot of burrows along that trail and even throughout the forest trails, which was nice to see, knowing they’re endangered. That darn hippo IS a biggun all right! The vultures hung out with him when he came out of the water and seemed to like his saliva. Animals are delightfully weird. That is *probably* the last time we’ll get to see manatees in the wild, at least for a long time anyhow, so it was a great place to see so many. Those crystal-clear waters are just amazing!

Laurel Oh, the manatee! I always love seeing them! It’s funny how something that truly does look like a floaty potato can make me so happy. Your campsite at Withlacoochee was perfectly located for biking. I’m with you…flat and long and no traffic makes for the best biking. And a good seat, LOL. Poor Ziggy. I hope Ziggy got found.

I have a fun nature fact for you (which you might already know, given your encyclopedic knowledge of nature). I was delighted to find out several years ago that the lichen on trees is a sign of good air quality. Something else that makes me happy!

Chasing Dirt I can’t imagine anyone looking at those sweet faces looking back up at them and not feeling completely captivated. They’re just so calm and gentle. I hope Ziggy got found, too! Poor little piglet.

I knew a little about lichen and air quality because of the lichen that grew on the ceilings of the Gila dwellings, but I love when comments pique my interest and have me researching further. Yours did that! Priceless!

Shannon I am so impressed at how you have managed to fashion a tour of Florida that perfectly fits your outdoorsy interests and avoids the tourists traps you dread. You may be single-handedly responsible for convincing a bunch of other travelers that Florida is much more than just the House of the Mouse! I did not know we had such a robust population of coyotes. I guess I’ll have to retroactively stop judging my former neighbor who lived in constant fear that her fluffy little white dog would be eaten by coyotes in our perfectly normal and fairly dense suburban development.

Chasing Dirt Pretty good, eh? LOL I hope I haven’t ruined things for my Florida native friends and family in the future!
Those dang coyotes live in every state now, except Hawaii, and I wouldn’t be surprised if one or more figure out how to stow away to get over there eventually. Wile E was aptly named!

chapter3travels Now that you say it, all I see are potatoes. Big, round, floaty potatoes. HA!

Also, now that you say it, I will make extra sure to never be downrange from a hippo. Boy, girl? Don’t care. Apparently, they make pretty questionable choices and humans just need to steer clear.

Downtime with nothing to do is unquestionably valuable. There is more planning and process in this life than appears on the surface. Sometimes it’s good to just veg.

Chasing Dirt There’s just no un-seeing it now, huh? Contrasted with the similarly-sized land potato of Lu, who not only is a natural-born poop-flinger, but did you know that hippos are the deadliest large mammal in Africa, responsible for more human deaths than any other? That’s saying a lot considering the whole continent is packed with deadly large mammals! Down time is definitely necessary and often overlooked in our lifestyle when we can feel pressured to GO! DO! EXPLORE! every day.

Lowe's Travels I learned something new, the red and the green lichens! I have seen them in our hikes but never bothered to know what they are called!
I enjoyed my alone time at the long name wildlife park on my first visit and dragged Steve on my second visit in 2019. We kayak just outside of that wildpark last year, and so much fun to see those manatees!

Chasing Dirt Aren’t those red ones pretty? They really do look fake. That river would be great to kayak with all those manatee! There were a lot of fisherpeople in boats, and the pelicans were biting their fish when they’d get one on the hook. I wonder if pelicans are tasty.

Sharron @onlytherocks Floaty potatoes ! Love it! And more of those danger noodles. Oh boy. I’ll just let you guys keep finding them. A little sad for Lu the hippo. But that’s quite an interesting tidbit about their poo . So many springs in Florida and wildlife in and around them. Supposedly the Florida Panther numbers are up so maybe you’ll get lucky and spot one of them from a safe distance of course!

Chasing Dirt I think we’re up to six species of rattlesnacks. Imagine if we were TRYING to find them! It would be very cool to spot a panther.