This might be my last post about ZION. With the third hike featured here, we have pretty much exhausted our trail options within the park for the time being. Depending on how much longer we’re in this area (and that is still frustratingly to be determined) we could certainly repeat some hikes, but we’d always rather take on new, unseen territory if possible. According to the park’s website, as of July 1, the shuttles are running again on a limited basis. That means that the scenic drive — the one I described cycling part of in my last post — is closed to private vehicles. That also means that a lot more people will be trucked in, and you can count us out of that whole scene.
Observation Point via East Mesa
One of the most iconic hikes in Zion, we hiked the “traditional” 8-mile roundtrip up to Observation Point in 2009. As far as elevation, that’s the most strenuous route, but there are other ways to access the overlook. Good thing, since the most popular way is out of commission due to a couple of massive rock slides that occurred last summer.
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| The way things used to be. |
The above photo, taken in 2009, shows two of the routes, and the point at which they converge to become a single route. Note the arrow positioning and the perspective from which the photo was taken.
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| The way things are now. |
Green shows where the trail still exists, and orange shows the sections that were obliterated by the slides. If you look at the top of the photo, you’ll see the lighter colored area on the cliff face, which is where all the rock slid off. I also marked where the Cable Mountain ruins are that we hiked to a few weeks ago. Obviously, it’s going to be many years before the trail is repaired, if ever. It’s not simply a matter of scooping debris away. Much of the trail was constructed by being carved into the walls of the canyon, and the slides served to smooth the rock face out meaning repairing the trail would entail carving out whole new sections. I hope they can fix it someday because it is an amazingly scenic route, evidenced in the photo below (my absolute favorite part!)
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| My brother-in-law and I navigate Echo Canyon in 2009. |
With two of the three routes impassable, that left us with what is (was) considered the ‘easy’ way. Now it’s the only way.
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| Observe this point! |
It is unquestionably much less strenuous when you aren’t climbing up from the canyon floor, but you’ll see from the map below that it is only a half-mile shorter in distance.
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| Cooler and more level than the “old” way |
Most of it is a wonderfully wide, smooth path through lots of greenery thanks to the elevation.
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| Unlike the “traditional” trail you can see carved into the mountainside. |
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| Don’t be jelly, influencers! |
One thing that hasn’t changed since we were last here is my fear of heights, and while it looks like I am perched precariously on a ledge, had I toppled off, I wouldn’t have gone very far from where I was. I may have died from my general fear of toppling but not the topple itself.
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| Looking across to the West Rim Trail, the lighter line in the middle of the photo. |
Although we were the first to reach the overlook that morning, others soon showed up, so we didn’t spend a lot of time out on the point. We backtracked a bit to a naturally shaded alcove where we had our refreshments — yay! — and then headed back, none too soon judging by the number of people we passed heading out.
Checkerboard Mesa
Another well-known and oft-photographed part of Zion is the cross-hatched Navajo Sandstone formation known as Checkerboard Mesa. The signed pull-out along the highway is a big reason it’s so well preserved in pictures. There is no formal hike on the mesa, but there are plenty of canyons and slick rock to explore.
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| Reconnoitering the canyon on the opposite side of the highway. |
We didn’t get too far in the above canyon because it consisted of either walking in sand or climbing up around obstacles, and that quickly became tiresome.
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| Slickrock surrounds the mesa. |
We tromped around in the open for awhile atop the grippy surfaces.
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| Dropping into the adjacent canyon. |
We walked up the small canyon to the north of the mesa until we couldn’t go easily anymore. It was a relaxed trek during which we enjoyed the cool shady breezes.
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| Fresh plant life magically grows in the rock walls. |
We never did take any photos of Checkerboard Mesa, not that it matters since it’s easily seen online if we (or you) ever want to see it. When we were returning from our hike, we climbed out of the wash to find we had been stomping right through a roped off no-step area! We felt bad and embarrassed to be seen by people along the road who could clearly see the signs and ropes from where they were. Our apologies NPS, but you need more rope around the backside of that area! Dammit.
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| A checkerboard mesa but not the Checkerboard Mesa. |
West Rim, Top Down
It is fitting that our (probably) last hike this year in ZION dovetailed with our first. It is the same trail as our first foray, the West Rim Trail, just done from the opposite direction. We planned for a long day of around 10 miles. While we could have hiked to the point at which we ended our bottom-up hike, that would have been much more than we wanted to do. Though we didn’t connect the two hikes, we still ended up doing much more than we wanted to do anyway.
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| TBG resting up for A Big Day. |
There were two other cars at the trailhead, but we didn’t see anyone else until at least a third of the way back on the return.
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| Look familiar? |
It’s the same intersection where we ended our Wildcat Canyon hike! This time we were passing by < thataway.
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| Smooth sailing! |
The beginning miles were wide and level, and trails like that can lull you into feeling like you’re not doing as much work as you are.
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| First rest break at 3 miles viewing South Guardian Angel peak. |
After a mile of gradual descent, we reached an unremarkable section known as Potato Hollow.
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| Thank goodness for a little elevation and a breeze. |
Next, the trail becomes a series of rollers that we dubbed “Baby Brutes” for their brief steepness and rockiness. They are the point at which you start to realize this hike, that looks like it shouldn’t be all that hard, is really a bit brutal.
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| Slogging up the last Baby Brute, “Hammerhead” viewpoint behind me. |
Once up the last hill we were willing to climb, we reached the nicely shaded trail junction at Horse Pasture Plateau.
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| A trail junction sign — always a welcome sight! |
I chose to take my break here, in the chilly shade on a log that was worn smooth by the heinies of other hikers before me. TBG hiked out another half mile to see what he could see.
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| What he could see was The Great West Canyon. |
Our hike back felt terribly long. It was inexplicably perplexing because it wasn’t the longest, steepest, or roughest trail we’d ever done, and yet our feet were aching and we were just done.
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| Beware |
On our last break, I decided to sit on a dead tree. After a few minutes, many little biting ants came out to tell me what a poor decision I’d made. As I plucked one off that was hanging by its tiny pincers from the skin of my triceps, I was a bit miffed that our darling prickle frogs had failed to make an appearance and clear the way. There was no lasting damage from the pesky ants, and I forgive my little mascots.
I hate to end on what seems like a sour note because we were not at all unhappy with this hike. Looking at stats in the little map below, it certainly explains our exhaustion, though!
I don’t know if our ZION explorations are truly done for now or forever, but I do know that if they are, we can’t say we left much on the table.
COMMENTS
Good luck finalizing your summer plans. It is so, so frustrating to face so much uncertainty and stress and icky weather in an effort to stay safe in pandemic times.
We were also quite surprised to read that the shuttles are starting up again on a limited basis. I wonder if the push of the un-shuttled public was worse than cramming the infected into the busses? All I know is we are so grateful to have been on the leading edge of all that.
Our travel plans live on paper (well, computer file) so it’s just a matter of a couple more things falling into place before we know if we can actually implement them. Or if we just live in southern Utah now. Like Laura said, at least it ain’t Yuma. 😀
And, Checker Board Mesa is a favorite for me … I’ve hiked a few of the adjacent canyons as well, but long ago before what you describe as roped/signed off ! I’ve scampered up the face as far as I could go without roping up to challenge the remaining cliffy section above.
I do miss Zion, but my last trip thru it while returning from GICL to the NW I did stop several pull-outs along the road but didn’t hike much … I did find the pull-out for a short hike to a petroglyph site I’d remembered from years past. And just a canyon or two west of Checker Board Mesa I noted a group of 3 big horn in the shallow arroyo beneath a mountain oak’s shade. What a site …
Hope you’ve enjoyed your stay in Hurc ! I thought you were heading up to Cedar City for a break on your way off to Florida … has that trip begun yet ? Enjoy and be safe … have a grand time in CO when you get there Try Gunnison, Crested Butte, and Breckenridge should you get the opportunity – Cheers !!!
We have been up to Cedar City and the Breaks a couple times with more visits planned. We absolutely love it up there, and it’s such a great relief from the heat. Our travel plans are on hold right now, but we haven’t given up hope that at least some of our 2020 plans can be salvaged. We will take your suggestions to heart when we do move and will, of course, keep you updated on our progress. 🙂
I don’t blame you one bit for being pooped and fed up by the end of that last trail. That’s a lot of hours of trudging along in the heat. Nice mountain views though!
I hope you get some clarity on your plans soon. This has certainly been a particularly trying time period for everyone living on the road. At least you were stuck in a beautiful place that gave you access to the thing you enjoy most in the world. If only the temperatures were a bit more comfortable. But seriously, you could have been stuck in Yuma…
Stay well (and stay on the right side of the ropes!!)
The views and near-constant breeze on many hikes have definitely saved us from ourselves and each other 😉
Even if we can’t finish off 2020 with our original plans, you speak truth when you say we landed in a good place. I’m a little sorry that I didn’t order that kiddie pool when you advised me, too, though.
It’s been at least 10 years since we were last in Zion, and we were planning on a return visit in 2021. But with so much uncertainty now, we have no idea when we’ll be there again. Waaahhhhh!!!!! I know you guys are stuck in your own particular limbo and have some big decisions to make. But we’re selfishly hoping that you’re still going to make it to Florida this winter. :-))
All our decisions are made — we just need things to settle down so that we can actually DO them!
EJ and Joni