When the thermometer begins to consistently top 100°F and the local weather forecaster announces in a completely deadpan fashion that a heatwave is coming, prompting me to yell at the TV “What?! So we all just combust, is that it?! I saw the signs in Death Valley! It can’t get much hotter than this!” we know it’s time to head to them thar hills to cool ourselves and our tempers. One hour, 10,000 feet, and 30° put us at Cedar Breaks National Monument and it felt high enough to be heaven. We rolled down the windows as we rolled toward the monument, relishing the fresh cool air. We hit the trail just minutes after parking.
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| Beside the point. |
The trail follows the ridgeline, overlooking the amphitheater of the breaks, which is another term for badlands, which obviously exist here.
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| Breaking Badlands |
There are no cedar trees here, though. The name was erroneously given when early travelers mistook the native junipers for cedars. Hailing from the land of all things cedar, we recognized immediately that no such trees grew here, but the elevation, other foliage, and overall feel of the monument apart from the breaks themselves, reminded us strongly of Old Home.
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| Snowshoe! |
We’d watched the park’s website beginning in June for the all-clear that the snow had subsided sufficiently for travel and exploration. Pockets still existed, and we know from experience some may never melt completely. We also know from experience that if you get really hot, making snow beanies is quite invigorating. We didn’t need them this time.
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| The view from Spectra Point |
Although cedar-less, there are other trees here that we were very much looking forward to seeing again.
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| Bristlecone Pines! |
We first encountered these amazing trees at Great Basin National Park in 2017. Coincidentally, the book I am currently reading mentions a bristlecone, and the perspective the passage provides struck me.
“There is a tree in California, a Great Basin bristlecone pine that was found, after an intensive ring count, to be five thousand and sixty-five years old.
…whenever I have despaired…and needed to feel a bit more mortal and ordinary, I think of that tree in California. It has been alive since the Pharaohs. It has been alive since the founding of Troy. Since the start of the Bronze Age. Since the start of yoga. Since mammoths.
And
it has stayed there, calmly in its spot, growing slowly…as those
mammoths became extinct…the tree had always been the tree.”
― How to Stop Time
I find being in the presence of these trees to be powerfully soothing, and that’s certainly something we could all use more of right about now.
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| Thank you for always being the tree. |
From Spectra point to Ramparts Overlook, the trail winds down a series of switchbacks through a forested area.
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| Mile two. |
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| Complete with a clear mountain stream. |
As the path leaves the trees, it skirts the rim until it reaches another open red-sand plateau that is the overlook.
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| O’er the ramparts I watched. |
We knew there was a particular critter that lived up here in the park, and we were hoping to espy it. When we were almost back to Spectra Point and just as I was lamenting that we weren’t going to see any…
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| Then I espied this plump little rock chuck! |
We have seen plenty of yellow-bellied marmots before, but this was a special treat since we’d come upon five pups scampering in and out of their burrow under a bristlecone.
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| Pure adorableness. |
I could have watched them for hours, but eventually someone would’ve come to remove me from the park, so I took a million pictures and a little video in order for me to look at them, suspended in time as roly-poly babies, whenever I want.
We made our way back down to the core of the park, where there is a small Visitor Center and store (closed), restrooms (open), and another overlook.
We had our snacks while enjoying the view from a log hewn bench in the shade and made plans for our return visit.
Our Return Visit
CEBR is not a large park by any standards, but there were a couple trails we didn’t traverse the first time around, making a second visit a priority.
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| Scritchy point. |
The Sunset Trail is a 2-mile paved trail that allows visitors easy access to all the different types of terrain and views that the park has to offer. We extended it a bit by starting on the campground trail and making a loop out of the southern part.
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| Heading over to scope out the campground. |
The campground was small, full, and had great views. Even though there was no vacancy, it looked like folks had plenty of room in their own sites, and we made a note of it as a possibility for a future stay.
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| Sunset Overlook |
A formal viewing platform which, as the name indicates, provides a breathtaking place to look over the sunset.
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| Maybe a third visit is in order? |
We kept to the sidewalk on the return. It is a lovely pathway, lined with wildflowers (the annual Wildflower Festival was to begin just days after this visit) and pines.
The Alpine Pond Trail is another 2-mile loop and the last of the formal trails in the park.
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| Where’s the point? |
This trail showcases the most forested area of the park rather than the views into the breaks, although they can be glimpsed from the western side of the loop at some places.
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| Peaceful in the pines. |
Mostly, the only sounds were the birds, but during this visit, we saw many more people than we had just ten days prior.
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| Looking for salamanders and fishes in Alpine Pond. |
We ran into the most people at the pond because it sits just north of the cross-over trail that connects the north and south loops. We took our time, watching to see which direction the most people were taking, then went the opposite way.
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| Peekaboo breaks through the trees. |
At the very southern end of the loop, you can walk out a short distance to the Chessman Overlook, but it is also right near the southernmost parking area (i.e. noisy people) so we chose to forego it.
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| Acceptably anti-social. |
Now I will leave you with one more picture of the unbearable cuteness that is baby marmots.
Okay, two more, because look at the one in the back!!
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| Rawr! |
Proper social distancing is approximately twelve yellow-bellied marmot pups. Stay safe, Faithful Readers!
That Great Basin Bristlecone Pine referred to in the passage can be seen and hug at White Mountain. So when your time comes to visit Highway 395 in CA, be sure to hike up there and hug the ancient one.
So adorable pups, too bad you can’t take them home with you.
We haven’t made it to Cedar Breaks yet, but I’ve always been impressed by the photos. Looks like they’ve got some nice trails and, while there were people there, my sense is it doesn’t get overrun like some of the other parks.
We’ve got marmots here and they are adorable, but baby marmots? Are you kidding me?? I am seriously jealous!
I know you’ll get to Cedar Breaks eventually. You’re right, even on the day it was busy, it wasn’t really busy. Any of the parks that take an effort to get to are the best! I looked it up for you, and marmot pups are born in May and June, which means for CEBR, you wanna get up there as soon as the snow clears. Until then, grown-up marmots are a perfectly acceptable tubby alternative!
Wow, Cedar Breaks is gorgeous. I had no idea! And now I want to camp there. Yes, I definitely think you need to return for a third visit so that you can tell us more and show us more of the beauty. It looks like it has it all…spectacular red rock scenery, magnificent bristlecone pines, wildflowers, and baby marmots!!
CEBR just feels *good*. It is quite likely we will get up there again. Even though there are no new hikes to do, and even if we just sit, it’s worth it. A true Happy Place!
The Great Basin NP is where we first encountered the bristlecones, and while we adore CEBR, we agree that the grove at GRBA is even better. I almost hate telling people how spectacular that park is, but I think it’s remoteness helps keep the big crowds away.
I’m glad the baby marmies brought you some cute happiness 🙂 🙂
We didn’t visit Cedar Breaks during our one visit to the area because it was much too early in the season (early April) and your photos definitely make me want to plan a return visit to the area at a different time of year. We’d have to think seriously about whether we could handle the 100+ temps in the nearby flatlands, however. I guess the seasonal challenges of that area are yet another reason it’s not overrun with visitors. Kudos to you for toughing it out and finding all the area has to offer!
I guess the term touch up has many variables.
I tend to shoot for exposure to the sky. That tends to under- develop the darker sections. I then pull back the shadows so that what is under exposed can be seen. I may add a few clicks, 5 out of 100, to add some clarity and contrast. After that I try to get the overall exposure to replicate what we saw but I don’t add colors for more blue or the red/oranges. Hope that helps.