March 22, 2022

The Fourth Fortnight in Benson, AZ


 The fourth and final fortnight, to be clear, then we embark on our five-week seven-stop route north to Washington. Since the rest of the country sprang forward (only two more time changes to go ever?! could it really come true at last?) we are now aligned once again with Pacific Time, on which we will remain. Essie is behaving, although a few weeks ago, it seemed that every time we turned on a bank of interior lights, one in the row was blinking, and -- no exaggeration -- TBG replaced all but maybe two in the span of just a few days.

Much of our last two weeks was spent birding. The canyons of SE Arizona are famous in Birder World, and charmingly, many private ranches and properties welcome the public, often at little-to-no cost. Donations are always appreciated because bird food doesn't grow on tre-- ok, it does, but everything else they provide doesn't. There are also several formerly private ranches that have been acquired by various organizations to be preserved and protected while still welcoming the public. We started with the Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve, part of the Nature Conservancy. 


We meandered along 2+ miles of trail bordering the creek then following an old railroad bed. There were dozens of birds to be seen, most of them too busy to want to pose for their portraits. The Vermilion Flycatchers were very well represented along with the bluebirds, some of which could very well be the "Mexican specialty" subspecies of Eastern Bluebird, the Azure Bluebird. If they were, they were the only new ones we saw, but it was a beautiful, peaceful walk nonetheless.


 Though we didn't, it is possible to have walked from that location to our next stop up the road, the Paton Center for Hummingbirds. The first eye-catcher was the group of birders with their binoculars trained on a snag. I sidled up behind them and quietly asked, "What are we seeing?" I was told it was a Ruddy Ground Dove, and just as I got my camera focused on the snag, it ducked back into the sticks. TBG, fortunately, hadn't wasted time asking and had just started taking pictures in the direction everyone was looking. That is why we have the picture, bottom left, of that dove which isn't rare, but is more of a Central and South American resident, increasingly showing up in some southern U.S. locales. Also new to us in the wild, having seen them at the desert museum's hummingbird enclosure, were the Broad-billed Hummingbirds, top left. They may be, in my opinion, the prettiest hummies in the U.S. with their flashing multi-hued feathers and glowing orange bills.

Not every outing was a birding one, although our next location is known as one of the local hotspots. We picked up TBG's old Army buddy, Mark, for a hike at Brown Canyon Ranch. Buddy-Mark, understandably, does not like birds since they decimated his roof a few years ago. He does, however, appreciate a nice hike and catching up with his friend, so that's what we did. 

The signage along the trail became mostly nonexistent after we rounded the apex of the loop until it became a single-track path that paralleled the road. Both Buddy-Mark and I saw the sign that said that part of the trail was a Nature Conservancy one. Therefore, we were all puzzled and a little alarmed when it eventually dumped us directly onto the asphalt driveway of a private residence, and we found ourselves behind the bars of a driveway gate and barbed wire. Wiry Buddy-Mark quickly scaled the bars, I followed, and TBG brought up the rear. I was just glad it wasn't electrified and that no one at the house had a shotgun trained on us. This whole escapade added a mile to our planned hike, which justified the delicious sandwiches we got at Urbano, where we met up with Buddy-Mark's better half, Moni, for a great visit.


I'd been avidly watching the eBird Hotspot reports to see where the Elegant Trogon(s) were being spotted. Very reliably, one was visiting the bushes adjacent to the Portal P.O. as well as one (the same one?) hanging out all winter at Cave Creek Ranch. Dodging windy days and hoping to increase our chances by waiting for warmer ones, we finally made the 2+ hour drive to the tiny town of Portal, AZ.



Our first stop was to park and walk up to the P.O. As you can see, I wore hummingbird-attractant colors. Gathering in the small parking lot was a local birding group, and I sort of hung back from them to listen to their leader and see what they could see. Before very long, though, it was apparent their guide was far too talky for my liking, and they weren't seeing anything I couldn't I.D. myself. I continued to the end of the road, delighting in the way the residents kept their yards as bird sanctuaries, some even offering benches placed by their fences with signs inviting passing birders to sit and enjoy. Next, we were off to hike the South Fork Trail!


The South Fork Trail is about four miles total, and it parallels the South Fork Creek, making it a great birding trail and one where the trogon is often spotted, but hadn't been reported there recently. It wasn't going to be reported there by us that day, either, but there were plenty of feathery and furry friends flitting along the pretty trail.

After our walk, we returned to the "downtown" area where I once again checked the pyracantha bush by the P.O. which was still trogon-less. We had some Hatch Chili burgers at the Portal Peak Lodge, Store & Cafe that were a little bland for Hatch chilies, but the sweet potato fries were outstanding. The service was prompt and friendly, there was plenty of indoor/outdoor seating with a bird guide on every table, and lots of birdfeeders all around so you could eat and bird (or butterfly) at the same time, of course.


While TBG settled up, I walked back to the P.O. again with no luck. Then we were off to the nearby Cave Creek Ranch. The eBird reports maintained that a trogon was wintering there and had been seen just about every other day. I felt certain we'd find it, but I'll rip the Band-Aid off now and tell you that we did not. I cannot claim complete disappointment, though, because we did see a bird that is a lifer for me, one that I'd hoped to see even more than the Elegant Trogon. Say what?! I tell you true. The Elegant Trogon is beautiful, elusive, much sought after, and one that every U.S. birder hopes to see someday, including me. But it is not the jewel in my birding crown. This one is:




It's the Blue-throated Mountain-gem! As you can see, it is a hummingbird and formerly known as the Blue-throated Hummingbird. The mountain-gem distinction is a genus one that field birders need not fret over. As soon as we walked up to the porch, I saw one in a tree out front. The difficulty was that it preferred to perch in the shade, obscuring the beauty of its sapphire-blue gorget. After we had walked around the grounds a bit scouring for the Trogie, we returned to the veranda, and I noticed the Gem liked to perch just around the corner on the bush, providing a good opportunity for photos. When a second showed up, that's when the first would become agitated and territorial, puffing up those splendid blue feathers that really are that blue.

Below, I included the eBird range map for both the trogon and the gem, and as you can see, the size of their U.S. territory is nearly equal.


After we'd nearly run our camera batteries out and not wanting to make the long drive home in the dark, we returned to the Portal P.O. area where we just hung out for a bit to see if that darned Trogie would make an appearance. We listened for its chicken-duck call, the sound of which is how most folks locate it, but it was not meant to be. We appeased ourselves with an ice cream treat from the store and headed home.

Around the resort, the rest of the week involved a visit from long-time friends, Erik & Theresa, who Faithful Readers will recognize from Somewhere Near Flagstaff, AZ and Grand Teton N.P. WY (GRTE) Much of their first few days here were, unfortunately, taken up with some unexpected RV repairs, but TBG and his since-college friend got it handled, and we all enjoyed a hot tub soak and some great food. They were still able to visit Tombstone as they'd planned, while we stayed around the park for a hike in the wash and to cheer for the golf cart St. Patrick's parade, which made us laugh and laugh. Plus candy!


The weekly veggie haul from the local food bank that is offered up to anyone who wants some after items have been distributed to those in need, included the cutest baby eggplants, and I grilled some up for dinner one night. The verdict: Tasty but a bit mushy even though I salted and "sweated" them all day. But, hey, free nutritious veggies! Over the weeks, we've also relished grapefruit, clementines, jalapenos, and red peppers that showed up alongside bags of brown rice prompting me to make stuffed peppers that week.

E&T added another day to their stay here so that they could enjoy a golf outing, and we spent that day at two more birding places, the first a place we'd visited in early 2019 FAIRwell & Hasta la VISTA.

Ramsey Canyon Preserve was just as lovely as we remembered. There is rumored to be a resident trogon there, but only one unconfirmed report this year that we could find, so while we kept our eyes peeled, we didn't hold out much hope for it. Not more than five minutes into our walk, TBG needed to return to the car for a business call with our builder, but he encouraged me to continue on my own. I had a marvelous time making my way slowly around the loop trails with so many birds, deer, and squirrels to say Good Morning! to. Just as I was returning, TBG was coming back up the trail, and I was more than happy to go around again.


Next we decided to make our way to the nearby Ash Canyon Bird Sanctuary It used to be a private B&B, the owner of which encouraged visitors to enjoy her birdscapes for a nominal fee. When she passed, her beautiful gardens were acquired by the SE Arizona Bird Organization, and still for a nominal donation, birders can stay as long as they like to watch dozens of birds in several feeding areas.


It was warm enough that day to comfortably sit in the shade and just enjoy. I'm a bad birder because I like the squirrels, too. They're cute and damn funny.



All apologies if you read the original post and are wondering what happened to the ending. I was trying to work on my phone and mini iPad to help alleviate the times TBG and I both need the laptop, and obviously, the solution is that I should have the laptop whenever I want for as long as I want. Seems reasonable, no?


 

**********COMMENTS**********

  1. This whole post had me thinking about a podcast I listened to recently about a movement called “Birds Aren’t Real.” The group argues that the U.S. government killed all the birds in the 1950’s and replaced them with drones that are constantly watching and recording us. They have quite a following on social media and regularly show up at public events to protest.

    Anyway, it’s obviously a joke designed to make fun of idiotic conspiracy theories…. or is it???

    LOLOLOL.

    I’m just saying, if those ARE birds, they are very pretty. But if they AREN’T birds, the government now has a LOT of information about you two.

    Just something to think about. ๐Ÿ™‚

    • I swear I thought I replied to the comments on this post, but obviously not. ๐Ÿ˜ฌ

      Anyhow, what with being a veteran, working in emergency services, and sharing everything else on this blog, if the government’s missed anything, that’s on them! Bring on the drone birds!

  2. Eating AND birding – be still my beating heart! I really enjoyed this post, such a variety of birds in one blog! I’ve seen many of them, with the exception of the beautiful blue Gem, the Redstart and, of course, the Elegant Trogan. I think they are just a myth designed to make us feel like bad about ourselves. When we were camped at Catalina State Park one year we had a (or more, possibly, they didn’t wear name tags) broadbilled hummingbird visitor daily – such beauties! See you later!

    • My favorite photos are the colorful hummies, but I also love the determination on the face of that birder that TBG captured.

      This nice long stay in Benson sounds like it was a good mix of activities: revisiting some known favorites, exploring new spots, doing necessary repairs and maintenance, and meeting up with friends. A long stay is particularly nice for learning about and getting to take advantage of things like the fresh veggies and local events like the parade. Just think how much more you’ll be able to do when you are well and truly settled into a new 

    • Chasing Dirt's avatar
    • It’s been a strange mix of both wanting and not wanting to be where we are. I’m sure you remember that feeling of being between worlds. As always, though, nature keeps us from completely losing it, although as I write this, nature is gearing up to be the cause of us losing it ๐Ÿ˜ณ

  3. Oh, how I would love to see that Blue-throated Mountain Gem! It truly is a gem. Those colors! We saw many different hummingbirds when we were in that area in 2014, but I don’t believe I even knew about that little jewel. And your photos are fabulous! Nice job on the bokeh background.

    Your wonderful birding adventures make me want to return. By the way, you inspired me to finally get our blog photos fixed from our visit there, LOL. Which just makes me want to go back even more. I think we should meet sometime in the thick of spring migration! In May, we saw Red-faced Warblers and a Mexican Spotted Owl. (I’m trying to entice you. And you can show me the blue gem hummie.) Looks like you had very fun visits with your non-feathered friends, too. :-))

    • I have no doubt you will eventually add the BTMG to your list, and now you know exactly where to find it! I would’ve loved to have found the Red-faced Warblers. We were lucky to have a resident Mexican Spotted Owl at Gila. But I do still need to find that mythical Trogon, so there you go!

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